Alabama to Florida - going where the climate suits my…
Halfway between my departure from Ohio’s snow cover and Selma, Alabama ‘round the Kentucky-Tennessee border, the trees become swollen, red buds in the sunshine, bouquets of daffodils dotted about, and many fields in full green splendor, drawing me southbound; listening to, to kill a mockingbird, a story well suited for this trip.
Across the Tennessee River on 65 as sunset faded in fragrant beauty, and on down south of Birmingham on 22 through Maplesville with the full moon dancing crazy through pines towering over the road like i’m rolling through a fractured canyon.
Day 1 - It seems a simple, obvious relational understanding, that if you don’t love me for who i truly am, your love isn’t truly for me; yet so much love we imagine and contrive, to the contradiction of truth - i love riding, be this bike 22 or 72 pounds.
Nevermind the wind, natty light cases and other dumpings, it’s the emptiness, over burnt sienna gravelly sand roads, towering pines and open fields, the birds singing songs and others that glide, the friendly folk, nevermind their dog may give chase a piece; all this fills me and draws me on and into this adventure. First planned camp reached at 1 PM, adaptation pulled me on to pause for a real lunch meal and another 25 miles riding; to the old swim hole, closed bridge and camp to be.
Day 2 - Yesterday at times, passing through vast logging areas, the ministry song “Destruction“ had some play, balanced with Bob Marley’s “Three Little Birds”; strange loops of balance. Sand along the roads, and in all the creeks got more and more white, like a beacon, like the moon i rose early this morning to view. The old swim hole, now posted, but a couple of families enjoying it suggested it wouldn’t be patrolled and they left it to me well before sunset. A white sand beach and high shelf was too ideal not to camp on; even with a little waterfall music to overwhelm my attentive hearing of nighttime sounds.
I suppose, in consideration of the fact that my legs had fallen off a couple hours before, yes, I was minding the wind, but it still holds credit for bringing the heat I desire. There’s no sense bargaining with reality: the wind will do what it will and sometimes I’ll go with it, hills will go up and then i’ll come down. I love the sun, yet sometimes the rougher road is worth a moment in the shade. Troubles me though, sometimes i feel like i come down more than i’ve come up, makes me wonder what’s up ahead; the answer: down climbing with a merciless headwind - so be it - another beautiful day, many miles on sandy, dirt and gravel roads meandering up and down among the pines. I’m about halfway, tomorrow will bring me close or into Florida; feeling some sadness to conclude Alabama - i’d come again, especially to the Talladega forest (see 2021 & 2022 recaps).
Day 3 - Night reveals so many sounds i struggle to settle the vigilance of mind that analyzes risk/proximity; my body may have benefited from resting, but my brain was awash with sound when awake and dreams when not, and it was over 60 degrees - too warm for the bag. Rolling along with the dragonflies, sand roads are littered with little yellow star flowers that fall from vines up in the trees, big yellow butterflies glide with me. Approaching Conecuh Forest there’s more variety in the trees, feels more native, lots of the magnolia sort. Brooklyn, southeastern Alabama, found a permanently closed market, stock still on the shelves; i’m getting a bit concerned about meals since i ate a dinner for lunch Sunday, civilization is sparse but a truck mechanic directed me to a café just a mile past my turn; woke up with little water so i had to do one ditch water filter bottle this morning, thankfully the mechanic also let me fill up water (the lady at the front window was apprehensive of me). At the cafe, they had enough breakfast leftovers to make me a sausage, egg & cheese biscuit; i didn’t care what kind of cheese it had on it (And if you know me, i’d say American is to cheese what fireball is to whiskey). All in all, that was a good breakfast; i rode 30K by 10 AM, and all that before i even started rolling yesterday - but that sand beach and the chill was compelling to stay.
Further South, gravel gives way to sand and where it’s deep i’m drifting and sliding just trying to keep up from sinking; i still love it - maybe all the more - except maybe that which blows in my teeth - but surely this tornado loves you. My sit bones have forgotten love for them, there’s only pain, but for so much more of me there’s pleasure. No vehicles for great stretches, no dogs for that matter, it’s glorious. Just about noon, before i truly face the wind, i see i have just under 10 hours estimated remaining ride time; maybe I’ll cut it down to four days - and the forecast is favoring this notion. But during the last hour of just trying to hold a walking pace into the 16 to 32 mph wind completely exposed for most of it, the estimated time added an hour and a half; but is not now back down to 10. I could only lay more flat on the bike if i put my legs out behind me Superman style, but then i’d need a throttle. Mercy is the trees cutting the wind, that exposure was brutal; for now i’m back in the trees.
I’m gonna have a talk with myself about looking at the weather without regarding the wind as a part of it; when i ride local i try to orient my route with the wind, while other factors are just reality (on this trip i’m inverted). Seriously regretting not going South to North, which for rental car reasons looked like a better option…now the wind confirms that fact. Nevertheless, endless beauty as roads shift from sand to gravel and back again down here by Bradley, feels very much like Talladega Skyway; just way flatter. Absolute luxury tonight, a paid and proper campground, hot shower, alligators in the lake, and a campfire to dance and glow (i love fire, like it’s of me) beneath a sky full of stars!
“Three days in the saddle, you know my body hurt” it being a proper camp, i finished my flask and tended for to relax.
Day 4 - Good rest last night, no worry of the alligators in the lake; today on the other hand, i feel some trepidation passing through this swampy land. Yesterday i saw a rider northbound near the FL/AL border, honestly looked like a PG jersey. Today, for quite a while i’m mostly following his tracks; there’s some comfort in that he was here. One shot at the short space between me and an aggressive, circling dog today, changed his interest quickly; $2 well spent. Some bushwhacking BS where hikers might belong, but seldom go; the route is a great and respectable (and appreciated) work, yet routes need to be dynamic - if you come, be willing to work around (and i don’t mean the temporarily closed bridge; which the workers waved me on as i crossed on a beam under their heavy equipment). Sand roads and endless beauty, unpredictable and very engaging; another day feeling ‘i could spend all day riding this’ - fulfilled. I did have to quell the motion again of trying to bargain with reality in my mind; know ye yet: the wind will do as it will, the terrain will be as it is - no matter what i would give were it some other way. Besides, i wouldn’t have forsaken that amazing swim spot with 25 miles left today; glad i couldn’t bargain that out in ignorance. To the hotel, to dinner and drinks, to people to share time with, to a hot tub to relax into; i’m glad to be here…tomorrow is another tomorrow…where will i be.
Did i tell you enough of the riding, of the route, of the being - challenged into gratitude, do you hear the songs, will you come to where you really are too - i look forward and inward; i am and we may be…
