Recap: Sky Island Odyssey East Loop
I first heard about the Sky Island Odyssey Route in 2020 not long after purchasing my gravel bike. It was Covid summer and I was in full dream mode making a gravel bucket list. From the route creator, Sarah Swallow, “The Sky Islands Odyssey is a journey through the vast borderlands of the Southwest, featuring a diverse network of dirt, rocky, and sandy roads that traverse the ever-changing landscapes characteristic of the Sky Islands bioregion in the Sonoran Desert of Southern Arizona.” Sarah Swallow may be well known to many of you having created several gravel routes in Ohio, including the Buckeye trail bike packing route.
When I read that Sarah Swallow was inviting bikepackers to join her for an unsupported, ride your own adventure in three days of one of the Sky Island routes and I just so happened to be in Arizona during that time I quickly signed up. The event was scheduled to start Friday, March 3. However due to a snow storm it was decided to push the ride back a day to allow the roads to dry out. Frankly the route in muddy conditions would not have been fun. Greatly appreciate Sarah and her family for checking out the route the day before to ensure we had a great experience. With the delay less people were able to stay and though initially folk were riding each of the 3 Sky Island route options, east, west and full, in the end most did the east loop (gravel option) and a few the full loop.
I had once again talked my good friend Allison into joining me on a bike adventure. I drove from Phoenix on Thursday morning to meet her in Tucson and we drove to Patagonia that evening to overnight at the Stage Stop Inn. With the delay we were able to enjoy an extra day in Patagonia with a pre-ride on Friday. We rode around town and a few miles of the beginning and the end of the east loop route as well as indulging at the local eateries. The Gathering Grounds is a great local coffee shop with delicious breakfast, lunch and bakery options. Several other riders from the event were finishing up as we arrived and it was great to chat with them as we discussed what we planned to do with the delayed start date and the road conditions.
DAY 1: Patagonia to Sleeping Dog Ranch Campground, 47 miles and 3189 ft
The morning of our adventure arrived with sunny skies and temps in the upper 40s. The high was projected to be in the upper 60s and there was no rain or snow in the forecast. Overnight temps would be in the upper 30s. After breakfast at the coffee shop, we met Sarah and the group at Patagonia Lumber Company for a 9 am planned grand depart. What an incredible feeling to roll out with about 35 cyclists to begin our adventure. We chatted together as we rolled out of Patagonia on pavement into Coronado National Forest. Once we hit the first gravel road at mile 3.5. I stopped to wait for Allison and the two of us continued on familiar gravel roads from our ride last year in Patagonia. There were several muddy patches in the next 12 miles and we could still see some snow on the side of the road where shaded. At mile 10 I came to the now familiar steep climb to a native grass plateau and stopped at the top to chat with cyclists who were on the Adventure Cycling Patagonia Gravel Tour. We said goodbye as they turned right and we continued on into the San Rafael Valley. This is one of my favorite areas from last year with its rolling hills, tall native gasses and cottonwood trees.
While I rarely listen to anything while riding I decided to play one of the Girls Gone Gravel Podcasts. This was the episode with Mai Merritt and I enjoyed laughing out loud while I pedaled through the valley. Around mile 13 I stopped to enjoy my morning muffin from Gathering Grounds and later a bathroom break before starting the 2.2 mile climb to Canelo Pass at mile 19.5. There is little cell phone coverage on this route and during the climb I missed a few calls/texts from Allison. Once she arrived at the top of the pass she informed me she wasn’t having fun and was turning around. She had recently finished a week of hiking, including the Grand Canyon, and didn’t feel as prepared as she would like for the ride. We decided she would head back to Patagonia and I would continue on solo. She would get the truck and meet me at our campsite for the night and we would decide on a plan from there.
It felt strange to continue without Allison and I was a little nervous but again I still was on familiar roads from last year and I started the delightful downhill from the pass. There are a few rocky sections on the descent but a nice break from the climbing. As I descended the village of Canelo could be seen in the distance before I was abruptly back on pavement around mile 23.5. The road section consisted of several rollers for 5 miles with little traffic and I was happy to see a beautiful packed dirt road at the turn for Vaugh Loop Road at mile 28. After Vaugh Loop Road things became interesting and a little nerve racking being solo in southern Arizona.
At mile 32 I turned onto Omega Lane and immediately saw multiple no trespassing and private road signs. There were a few houses off the road and the first one had one of those “prayer is the best way to meet the Lord; trespassing is faster” with a picture of a large gun on it. I stopped as it just didn’t seem like I was supposed to go that direction or at least it didn’t look welcoming. I checked the route; looked the other direction and realized I really have no idea where I was. With some trepidation I continued to follow the GPS route. A mile later I came to a locked gate and after going back to a side road that seemed to go to someone’s house I returned to the gate and this time really looked and noticed a latched gate to the right with partially trodden overgrowth. I lifted the latch and closed it behind me. Whew! First of several gates to open and close. I was definitely in new territory. I was also now on poorly maintained two track and in the middle of nowhere. I was reminded again (the sign was the first reminder) that I am a black woman on a bike alone and I had one of those uncomfortable feelings of being somewhere I didn’t belong. The trail did not improve and at one point I felt like I was riding in a creek bed. At some point I took a few deep breaths and remembered I actually enjoy an adventurous route with beautiful mountain views. So I embraced the terrain and kept pedaling having shifted my mind back to my happy place. (Note: Sarah’s above linked official route does not go through this area on private land. This may have been just for the event but I have not followed up with Sarah; therefore, I did not provide the route that I took this day. Best to use Sarah’s published route to plan your trip)
I finally came out of the rough area and onto a wider unpaved road. While it felt like I was on the rough section for miles it was only about 5. Still I was glad I was riding the “gravel” friendly route on my mountain bike. Around mile 37 just after I reached a paved road I met 3 women coming off the standard east route and they commented they had an even longer section of the double track, mud, etc. Needless to say I was just happy to see cyclists and we stuck together to the Sonoita Mercantile Store, the first resupply point since leaving Patagonia. A little FYI, there are about 20 wineries in the Sonoita area and you could easily re route yourself to enjoy a few.
Once at the store we encountered several more riders and I chatted with them letting them know I was now riding solo and hoped to meet up with them tomorrow on the route. From there we traveled on highway 83 which had a wide shoulder for about 4 miles before turning on a dirt road and reaching my campground less than 2 miles later. The Sleeping Dog Ranch Campground is the only campground directly on the route. Allison and I had reserved a campsite for the night for $25 which included use of the community room, its kitchen, shower and washer/dryer. Yes I actually washed my kit and used the stove to boil my water for my rehydrated meal. What a luxury. We were the only ones to use the campground. The rest wild camped past the Kentucky Camp about 4.5 miles further. I saw no need to wild camp when I didn’t have to. I mean shower… yes please.
Day 2: Sleeping Dog Ranch Campground to Dispersed Campsite, 50 miles and 4012 feet.
I woke refreshed, enjoyed my oatmeal, repacked my bags and was eager for the day of riding. Allison joined me on the first 10 miles and it was wonderful to have her company. We had a 4.5 mile climb up to the Kentucky Camp turnoff, where there is a water spigot for refueling. We decided not to take the downhill to the camp as we had ample water. Kentucky Camp is a historic site with a group of 500 year old adobe buildings including a 3 room adobe building available for overnight rental. Once we left the camp turnoff we enjoyed the beginning of a 20 mile descent. I say enjoy but the first 5 miles consisted of rollers on rocky terrain progressing to steep downhill sections on similar terrain. I felt bad knowing Allison would have to climb it for her return. We passed a border patrol in his SUV at mile 8 as we took the folk to the left and the terrain improved soon after with a packed dirt surface.
Around the 10 mile mark Allison and I said our goodbyes. I wished her luck on the climb back and I continued descending on Box Canyon Road in a beautiful scenic area of the Santa Rita Mountains. I encountered a few vehicles who were also enjoying the views, driving slowly on the unpaved road. I’m sure they marveled at the big grin on my face as I enjoyed descending into the valley on a sunny day with temperatures reaching the low 70s. At one point I had to stop as a cow was in the middle of the road. I kindly asked him to move and he eventually ambled off the road. Around mile 18 it was back to pavement for a 7 mile ride into Green Valley and a resupply at Safeway grocery store in a shopping center. One thing with riding solo is you tend to take shorter breaks and I was happy to see the crew from LA as I rode up to Safeway. They waited while I went inside to purchase lunch/snacks before continuing on their way. I enjoyed a nice lunch and relaxed a bit before hopping back on the bike.
After a slow incline along a highway service road I turned onto the Juan Bastista de Anza Trail. The trail is flat, dirt, and a little boring. A few hikers were out as well as one grey haired woman on a bike with the biggest smile I had seen in some time. I smiled back. Once off the trail I was back on a paved road going toward the Fred Lawrence Whipple Observatory. There is an option to continue to ride up to the closed observatory on a dirt road which I didn’t plan on taking. The four mile climb on the road was enough but quite scenic with low desert vegetation and mountain views.
As I finished the climb toward the Whipple observatory I was happy to see the LA crew at the turn for the gravel forest road. Misery loves company and we had been warned by Sarah that the upcoming12 miles of climbing would include hike a bike sections over rough rocky terrain. She was correct. But onward we went. The first several miles were fine, a little rocky but rideable. There were a couple water crossings as the trail dipped down and then rocky climbs back up and eventually the terrain had a more continuous rocky loose surface with steep grades.
While I like hiking I am not a fast hiker with the bike and toward the end I was hot and exhausted. Finally as the sun was beginning to fall, I told one of the group hiking near me that the next open site I was going to stop and set up camp as I was done. Luckily it would seem that those ahead had the same feeling as around the curve we saw the faster riders were already setting up their tents. Hallelujah! We set up camp as the sun fell, made dinner wearing headlamps, chatted briefly and then I snuggled into my sleeping bag to read a bit before drifting off to sleep only to be awoken at 12:40 am by an ATV… Border Patrol. Soon joined by another loud partner and much later we heard several more and a large truck going by. They noted we were bike packers and besides announcing border patrol and the “good guys” they didn’t interact further except to look around. We overheard “a big group is on the way”. Anyway back to sleep or some semblance of sleeping. Another day completed. We encountered no migrants on our journey.
Day 3: Dispersed Campsite to Patagonia, 18 miles and 1502 ft
I woke up to a beautiful day. Not many miles left, but still 3-4 miles of the rough section to go. I had hoped a good nights rest would make it easier to ride but alas still more hike a bike sections interspersed with short riding and more sketchy short descents usually to a water crossing. After climbing almost to the top we came to a clearing with an abandoned wrecked car. The guys both stopped to examine. I snapped a picture and kept climbing . Less than a mile later the 12 plus mile “rough and tough” section was over. We stopped at the Adobe Ruins to regroup. The LA group decided to linger longer and have lunch. I was feeling good and knowing Allison was waiting I climbed back on the bike. Just past the ruins I passed a cattle guard and the most beautiful packed dirt road appeared. The next few miles had a few rollers and one more climb before the gradual ascent back to Patagonia. I had made it! I met the LA group at the Wagon Wheel Saloon in Patagonia as they rolled into town and said my thanks and good bye. Allison met me as well and loaded the bike and gear for me. I mentally checked another item off my gravel bucket list and smiled.
More Route Information
Sarah Swallow’s website: https://sarahjswallow.com/
Bikepacking.com link to Sky Island East route though most up to date routes are on Sarah’s RidwithGPS page: https://bikepacking.com/routes/sky-islands-odyssey-east-loop/
Sarah’s RidewithGPS page with updated routes. : https://ridewithgps.com/collections/18457?privacy_code=YyFhkpw7siz2XB8R (route was made to be ridden in a counter clockwise direction. Also please read the notes to the right on her ridewithgps collections page)
My Bike packing gear:
I had originally planned to ride my gravel bike with 700 x 45 tires as I still hadn’t figured out how to set up my new mountain bike for bikepacking. The mountain bike does not have enough wheel clearance to use my Revelate Seatpack. Sarah’s info on the trip listed a bike shop in Tucson, Campfire Cycling, for possible rental bikepacking gear. I stopped there on the way to pick up Allison as I needed some help putting brackets on my front folks. The brackets were a suggestion from the OGG Blog post on bikepacking with a small frame. Allison later joined me at the store for a little help adjusting her gear. The shop had every kind of bikepacking gear imaginable and after talking to them and bringing in all the gear I had they helped set up my mountain bike for the trip. Riding the mountain bike was a great choice for the route.
https://www.campfirecycling.com/
I already had and used the following gear:
My bike: A Specialized Chisel
Revelate Sweetroll handlebar bag for tent and a cycling kit
Revelate Egress pocket for snacks, personal care items.
Revelate feedbag and another feedbag in which I carried one 24 oz water bottle containing Liquid IV (also used Scratch on the trip). One bag held an extra mountain bike tube, pepper spray and more snacks.
Revelate Mag tank for snacks and occasionally my phone.
Revelate Terrapin bag. I used as a drybag to hold my sleeping bag, camp clothes, inflatable pillow, towel and electronics. I did not use the seatpack holder. The bag went on my below purchased rack.
Camelback with 2 liter bladder for water.
What I purchased:
Old Man Mountain Bike Rack and the adapter for the wheel axel
Ortleib 4.1 liter fork bag x2. One held my stove and food and the other my tarp and sleeping pad.
Oveja Negra frame bag which came in cute colors. This held an extra 2 liters of water, bike changing kit, headlamp, and a hand pump.
3 Voile straps: 2 to tie the Terrapin bag to the rack and one to latch my camp shoes on top of the drybag as well as a paperback book.
Campfire Cycling also added sealant to my tubes as my bike wasn’t set up tubeless; though the wheel set is, the tires are not (a little annoyed by this). The added sealant to the tube was something I hadn’t heard of doing but it gave me extra protection for flats. I had no mechanicals on the trip.
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