Recap: Catalina Island, CA Bikepacking Overnighter
I came across this Catalina Bikepacking route while looking for a solo overnighter route during my winter trip out west. Catalina Island is west of Los Angelos and accessible by ferry. The island has about 40 miles of mostly dirt roads and trails open to “mountain biking,” but I noted in pictures that several were riding their gravel bikes. Using ridewithgps I put a route together for the overnighter with a plan to stay at Two Harbors campground about 22 miles from Avalon (where the Catalina Flyer ferry docks). Once I went to reserve a campsite I noted the Two Harbor campground was closed until March so switched to Little Harbor campground. With a last minute search, I also found a more adventurous route to the Little Harbor campground that I decided to take instead of the original route. That probably wasn’t the best idea since I was also returning from a 4 - week break from riding.
Costs: This trip has a few extra expenditures. I was already in California so no travel costs from Ohio. Other expenses: I used a Groupon coupon for the ferry saving about $14 for a total of $58 round trip from Newport Beach, CA to the largest town on the island, Avalon. You can take your bike for an additional $20. Extended parking was about $50 at Newport Beach. Campsite rental including fees was $33 (camping is only permitted in 5 designated campgrounds). They also have “tent cabins” with cots available and if needed you can rent tents, sleeping bags, etc. that can be delivered to a few of the campgrounds on the island (see link for more info at end of post). To ride outside of Avalon a freewheeler bike pass is required which you can obtain by (required) membership in the Catalina Conservatory $35/year (the bike pass is free with membership as well as 50% off campsites).
The temps were expected to be in the 60s both days, February 16 and 17, with night lows in the upper 40s/lower 50s. No rain was in the forecast. I had originally planned the trip to start the day before; but heavy winds and rain the prior day canceled all ferries to the island. I quickly rebooked without a problem as it’s the off season and I was traveling on the weekday. I was also able to easily change my camp reservation. I drove to Newport Beach early Thursday morning to catch the 7:30 am Catalina Flyer ferry to Avalon. The ferry notes said to arrive an hour early, however, this time of year they didn’t start boarding until 15 minutes prior to leaving. With the extra time I joined several of the other passengers at the cafe across from the ferry and enjoyed a breakfast sandwich. People slowly began to line up about 20 minutes prior to departure. As I prepared to roll my bike in line, the ferry owner introduced himself and let me know I needed to get a tag for my bike from the ferry checkin window a few feet from the ferry dock. I was able to quickly get the tag and board the ferry. Upon rolling the bike on the ferry they asked if I had a kickstand. There are no bike racks/holders on the ferry but there is space to lean your bike against the wall. I wedged my bike back tire using heavy ropes that happened to be on the floor and used luggage on the front wheel. I sat near the bike though spent time on the upper deck enjoying the views. There was another couple traveling with e-bikes who planned to ride that day in Avalon and return on the later ferry. Their bikes had kickstands. The ferry ride was a little over an hour and quite enjoyable.
Once I arrived in Avalon I went to the Catalina Island Conservatory Office (down the street from the docks on the left just before the road turns; sign is on the building) and picked up the required Freewheeler bike pass to ride on the island (no pass is needed if just riding in Avalon area). I was able to use the bathrooms and readjust my load before setting off through the small town to begin my first climb of the day, the longest at 5 miles.
DAY 1- 24 miles; 3600 feet Avolon to Little Harbor Campground:
I started the route around 9:30 am. The first 1.6 miles of the route is on pavement. The paved road continues past the turn for Renton Mine Road, however, I missed seeing the turn and had a glorious 0.6 mile descent. I suspected I was going the wrong way when I saw the couple from the ferry on E-bikes coming toward me as I had noted them leaving on the road going the opposite direction from the ferry. Sure enough I had to climb back up the descent before making the turn for a small dirt parking lot. The road was ahead with a gate. There were warning signs for the infamous island bison but unfortunately for me no bison sightings during my trip (link with story of the island’s bison at end of recap). The road was quite rough with big rocks, large ruts and I was off my bike soon after starting the climb. Not good. I went a little further and spoke to a hiker coming toward me. He stated that the “road” did improve once past the poles about half a mile ahead. Though he admitted he had not hiked much further. With this “positive news” I continued on. One of the excursion jeep tours passed me and I noted that they kept stopping and were moving really slow through a particularly bad section of the trail. Off my bike again. And then the trail did improve slightly. I should mention that the road at this point is all climbing with switchbacks and the views of the ocean were incredible. The road unfortunately continued to alternate between rough and rocky to less so. I was committed by this point and kept climbing. I would get off the bike when there was a deep crevice across the road or too many big rocks. Finally after 5 miles at a slow slog I came off that portion of the road and the first major climb was over. The more standard route avoids this section. I was riding a Giant Revolt Advanced 2 with 700x40 tires. While I would recommend a mountain bike if taking Renton Mine Road, a gravel bike is doable with larger tires. I also suspect the road conditions will vary depending on recent rain and whether they had put down fresh gravel. Besides the excursion tour jeep and the early hiker I encountered no one else on this portion of the route.
At mile 7 I continued onto Divide Road, still unpaved and a slight surface improvement. Around mile 8 I was surprised to come across a clean bathroom with a pit toilet and there were additional ones scattered on the route both days. Nice surprise to have indoor facilities for the trip. The bathrooms tended to line up with the Trans Catalina hiking trail and the Hermit Gulch Lookout for the hiking trail was near this one. I also enjoyed a break at the lookout eating a few snacks and taking photos. At mile 10 I came to a fence and a locked closed gate. There was an opening at one grassy end of the fence and once around I continued onto Airport Road. This portion of Airport Road is packed dirt and in very good shape. There is a park on Airport Road by a stream with picnic tables, bathrooms, etc. I saw a few hikers on the hiking trail on the other side of the park. At mile 12 I turned on Middle Ranch Road and began a gradual descent. This road also had variable conditions and one of the few areas with “civilization". On Middle Ranch I went past a small construction site and a horse farm as well as the small development of Middle Ranch. I was passed by another excursion tour jeep and enjoyed hearing their hellos as they slowly went by. Besides the excursion tour jeeps, there is little to no traffic on Airport Road. I noted no other bike packers during my trip.
On Middle Ranch Road I once again had gorgeous water views and views of the vast green mountains that I was transversing. As I finished a one mile climb I had a view of Little Harbor Campground and its inlet. After a little more climbing and a descent I arrived at the campground. Little Harbor Campground has running water, outdoor showers and port-a-potties. Best of all was the beach location and beautiful palm trees swaying in the gentle breeze. Though camping is not allowed directly on the beach it is just a short walk from my campsite #10. My original plan was to set up camp and than continue onto Two Harbors to go to the general store and take a look at the village; however, it took me longer than anticipated to get to Little Harbor and I had to remind myself the purpose of the trip was to relax, enjoy, destress, camp and cook a meal. I preceded to set up my tent, unpack and get settled. I had used all the gear once before except the sleeping pad and the cooking stove. Setting up the sleeping pad was easy though the next day I had a difficult time getting the air to release. Once I figured out the trick all was fine. After setting up camp I enjoyed yoga on the beach and later boiled water in my stove to make dinner in a pouch. This was my first time using a camp stove and I was a little hesitate to light it. I know I should have practiced before leaving home... My second mistake was using a new lighter. What happened to flick your Bic and what was with the child lock? Definitely bringing matches next time which is probably a better choice for lighting the stove. Anyhow after much fiddling with the lighter, taking a break and returning to try again as well as getting over turning the dial up enough on the flame adjuster valve; I successfully lit my stove; boiled my water and cooked my dehydrated spaghetti dinner. Tasty.
A group of hikers arrived at the next campsite prior to me setting up my camp and later that night a couple more hikers arrived; I did not see any other campers for the night. Overnight temps were in the upper 40s and I was a little chilly initially but comfortable with my sleeping bag rated at 18F. I forgot my reading material and turned in early. The first hiker group had a fire going in their fire pit as they had used the firewood delivery option from Two Harbors General Store. A great option and one I would hope to do next time.
DAY 2 -16.5 miles, 2400 feet, Little Harbor to Avalon:
The next morning I was up early to breakdown camp. I elected to skip cooking my oatmeal with the hope that I could take the more traditional route to the Catalina Airport in the Sky to have breakfast. My route GPS had me turning on Sheep Chute Road; however I noted the road to be rough plus plowed dirt was across the turn. I then saw a sign that said no bikes. I quickly pulled out my phone and decided to take El Rancho Escondido instead (despite that the map shows it is unpaved). A good and enjoyable decision. The road took me along a beautiful, scenic route that included a vineyard. There was a 3 mile climb up to the airport and the Trans Catalina Trail crossed or was just off the road. As I approached the airport I saw groups of hikers on the trail. Once at the airport I enjoyed a delicious freshly made breakfast burrito and great conversation with locals and a few hikers. I sat outside and relaxed for a while just enjoying the beautiful view and weather.
Leaving the airport I was on a rough paved road. Bumpity-bump-bump. After about 3-4 miles the dirt had reclaimed much of the pavement. Views of Avalon and the ocean could be see intermittently and I was surprised to see a cruise ship just off the shore of Avalon. I would later discover it was a Disney cruise ship. The view of Avalon Harbor from the road was stunning on the clear sunny day. The last 3 miles are paved making for a nice descent on great smooth pavement. This was the 3 mile steep climb I opted to skip for the more adventurous 5 mile climbing route. Lol. Next time I’ll take the 3 mile steep climb on great pavement. I noted a few more vehicles and once closer to town the ubiquitous golf carts abound. I went past the zipline staging area and through the town gates (all vehicles require permits to exit). I stopped at the Catalina Chime Tower just out of town for a quick photo and then continued to slowly sail into Avalon behind a golf cart. Avalon was bustling with tourists from the cruise ship as well as others who had come over on the ferry. I stopped at a novelty store to purchase a book and grabbed a late lunch and celebratory cocktail at a local restaurant to relax for a couple hours before the final ferry ride home at 4 pm. What a fabulous time bikepacking Catalina Island solo. Hopefully I can come back in the future to finish exploring this splendid island.
LINKS:
Catalina Conservatory: https://catalinaconservancy.org
Campgrounds: https://www.visitcatalinaisland.com/lodging/camping/camping-guidelines-and-faqs
Ferry (there are a few others and one that goes to Two Harbors): https://www.catalinainfo.com
Why are bison on the island?: https://catalinaconservancy.org/recreation/bison
Gear:
I appreciated Teresa Patrick’s writeup from July 2022 of overcoming the challenges of bike packing with a small frame. I already had a Revelate Seat Pack, Sweetroll handle bar bag and mountain feed bag. I needed a frame bag and purchased the Revelate Ripio, size small. I used her packing suggestions on where to put what. I did not install the folk brackets to use the folk bags but will for next longer trip. I had been wanting to get the Revelate Mag Tank Cockpit bag and was glad I was able to take advantage of Revelate’s sales over the holidays to make my purchases.
Route:
I included the adventure route from Avalon to Little Harbor Campground and the original route which includes my return. This route also includes the continuation to Two Harbors and Parsons Landing that I did not have time to complete on day 1. Day 2 plan was to relax once back in Avalon. I also adjusted the return route to avoid Sheep Chute Road.